Additionally it can be moved fore & aft with the nuts that sandwich the slotted mount. This allows the dash to be adjusted vertically. Before covering the dash I countersunk and JB Welded two 1/4-20 x 2" or so flat head screws into the dash which get recieved by the slotted mounts that are riveted to the front edge of the dash hoop. The red arrow points to one of two adjustable mounts that I made (the other is in a similar position on the other side just out of camera range). While this one doesn't specifically focus on the mounting areas if you look closely hopefully you can see it as I try to describe what I did on Steve's Mk4: I thought I had a better photo but if so I couldn't turn it up. Has anyone else run into this issue? I guess it doesn't matter if the screws that attach the top of the dash are visible, it just that on all of the cars I have seen, they are clearly visible and lie about 1/2" below the bottom edge of the cowl roll. I guess I could put some type of wedge between the cowl and hoop to raise up the cowl edge so I could get a couple of pilot holes drilled but that would mean that all of the attaching screws would lie up and behind the rolled edge. I ran my hand behind the cowl edge and there appears to be about a 1/2" space between the cowl and the top of the dash hoop which I don't think is unusual. However, the dash hoop is directly behind the rolled edge of the cowl so I can't any type of pilot holes started. Based on the numerous dash pics I have looked at, I expected to have a nice row of machine screws with finish washers below and following the arc of the cowl edge. Wanted to get a few pilot holes drilled in the top of the dash panel where it attaches to the dash hoop. Will spend that time finishing out the chassis, specifically, installing the cockpit and trunk carpet and the dash. the defrost hoses, antenna cable, right side ac air duct, and ac plastic cover on pass side.Have pretty much finished all of the panel trimming and fitting for the door, hood and trunk lid so just about ready to take the body off the chassis and put it back on the body buck for storage until the weather warms up and I can get it to the painter. Then going to have to reach under to connect. Then just hook up the wires to the heater box, door jamb switches, dome lamp, dimmer switch, brake lamp,switch, bulkhead connector in the firewall hole, and rear connector down the left side. They beauty of doing it that way is to have it all together before going in the body so you don’t have to stand on your head to install this stuff later. Have a helper set it in the car so you don’t damage anything. Then push dash forward to get the top bolts started to secure it. While it’s there see if you can have a helper hold it back from the installed position to get room to connect the speedo cable, heater cable and vacuum hoses. Have the two lower bolts to the side panels partly in already and set the lower dash ears on those. Have the left ac duct and supply tube already in the dash, have the center floor duct bolted on the heater box, you don’t want to have to do this later. Have the dash completely assembled, cluster, wiring harness, radio, speaker, heater controls & cable, glove box, etc. Install the complete wiper system, speedometer cable, park brake system, firewall insulation, heater box and defrost ducts first.
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